You found a kitten! Now what?
An unplanned or unwanted cat can be stressful! We’re here to help you make the right decision for the felines in your life.
Can’t care for the cat? Reach out to us! Whether you just found a random kitten or need to surrender a pet you can’t care for, we’ll do our best to take them in and find them a home. If we are full, we can also help you become a foster parent under our organization.
Want to take care of the cat yourself? We have decades of experience and very knowledgeable members. Feel free to reach out to us for advice about anything. Below is a quick guide to get you started with the most challenging cat rescue task: kitten care!
Does a cat need rescue?
Our mission is to make sure every cat in need is cared for. Part of that is making sure we know which cats actually need rescue and which are already cared for. Sometimes this can be tricky when you find a cat outside.
Infants
Kittens with closed eyes or that are too young to walk most likely have a mother cat nearby. Mom might leave the nest to hunt or scout for a new location, but she’ll almost always come back to her babies. If you find kittens this young, stay a distance away and wait for at least 2 or 3 hours to see if mom comes back. They still need her!
If mom comes back, try to get her inside. If she’s friendly, you can just bring her inside or coax her into a crate. If she’s feral, you may need a trap. Either way, get mom first and then pick up the babies once you have her. Then you can bring them all into care together. Infant kittens should only be rescued without mom if she is definitely absent or you absolutely can’t trap her.
Young kittens
Kittens who are old enough to eat on their own (5-10 weeks) might already be wandering far away from mom. It is usually a good idea to rescue kittens this age because they are young enough to be socialized into pets but old enough to survive on their own. Just make sure the kitten is not already someone’s pet by asking neighbors in the area. Be sure to get them fixed by 4 months old so they don’t start procreating!
Older kittens and adult cats
This is where things get a little less certain. An older cat walking around outside might not need rescue at all! It may be someone’s indoor/outdoor pet, a barn cat with a safe place to live, or even a feral cat that is comfortable in its current colony. Here are a few tips to help you decide whether to intervene:
Is the cat friendly? If so, it is definitely not feral. It may be someone’s pet. The first step is to check with neighbors to see if the cat already belongs to someone. If so, let him be. He’s already right where he belongs and is not suffering.
No neighbors claimed a friendly cat? Check for other signs of pet ownership. You can take the cat to any vet or the humane society to have it scanned for a microchip. You should also check with Animal Control to see if there are any lost cat reports matching your kitty’s description, and post on local Facebook groups like “Tuolumne County Lost Paws” and “Chit Chat Sonora Pets” to see if anyone is missing the kitty.
Does the cat have a tipped ear? When someone fixes a feral or stray cat, they will often have the vet remove the very tip of one ear. This tells other humans that the cat is fixed already and doesn’t need to be trapped again. Cats with tipped ears, whether friendly or not, often don’t need to be rescued because they are already living happily on their current turf.
Does a friendly, unclaimed cat hang around and ask to come inside? It’s probably safe at this point to assume the cat is a pet who was lost or dumped. This is a great candidate to be brought inside and given a home.
Is the cat injured? If so, definitely seek medical attention for the cat ASAP. You can always work on determining ownership of the cat after its immediate health concerns are addressed.
Assessing a Kitten’s Age
It’s important to know how old a kitten is so you know what their needs are. Kitten development is rapid, so try to assess their age before you begin your care plan. Feel free to reach out to us for assistance!
Newborn
umbilical cord attached
eyes closed
ears folded
can’t regulate body temp
weight: 50-150 grams
1 Week
no umbilical cord
eyes closed
ears folded
can’t regulate body temp
eyes open at 8-12 days
weight: 150-250 grams
2 Weeks
eyes open, blue color
ears folded but expanding
wobbly on feet
can’t regulate body temp
weight: 250-350 grams
3 Weeks
ears unfolded
incisors emerging
still a bit shaky on feet
discovering litter box
starting to regulate body temp
weight: 350-450 grams
4 Weeks
canine teeth emerging
vision improving
walking confidently
starting to use litter box
can regulate body temp
weight: 450-550 grams
5 Weeks
premolars emerging
playing with toys and each other
starting to wean slowly
starting to use litter box consistently
weight: 550-650 grams
6 Weeks
all baby teeth have emerged
eating wet food confidently
starting to drink water
weight: 650-750 grams
7 Weeks
transitioning to adult eye color
coordinated and playful
little to no interest in a bottle
weight: 750-850 grams
8 Weeks
fully weaned
eyes are adult color
at 2 lbs, can be fixed and adopted!
weight: 850-950 grams
Maintaining Body Temperature
Kittens under 5 weeks of age cannot maintain their own body temperature! It is critical to keep them warm. A cold kitten cannot digest food and can even pass away if not kept at the correct temperature.
To keep kittens warm, provide a gentle heat source. There are incubators you can use, but that equipment is not required. You can also use a kitten-safe heat pad or microwavable bed warmer.
Once you have the kitten in a contained area, place the heat source in their sleeping area and make sure there is a blanket or cover between the heating device and the kitten. The kitten will spend all of their time on the heat pad for the first week or two and then may stray from it and only rely on it while resting at 2-5 weeks old. Make sure that they have space to get off the heat source if they get too warm. Even very young kittens can wiggle around until they are at a comfortable temprature.
At 5 weeks old, as long as your room temperature is comfortable, you can stop providing a heat source.
Weighing Kittens
Monitoring kitten weight is an essential part of their care. Weigh kittens at least once per day until they are fully weaned so you can ensure that they are gaining weight steadily. A healthy kitten should gain roughly 7-15 grams per day. If a kitten is not gaining weight — or worse, is losing weight — that is a sign of illness and should be addressed immediately.
A simple kitchen scale is a great tool for weighing kittens.
Feeding and Weaning Kittens
Kittens under 5 weeks old will still be nursing exclusively. If the mother cat is not present, this means you will need to bottle feed. This can be a big task, but don’t worry! Once you get into a routine, it is very do-able.
Materials
A bottle.
Appropriately sized nipple. PetAg and the Miracle Nipple are both great options. (NOTE: The PetAg and similar nipples do not have a hole in them. You will need to create one yourself. The best strategy is to use sharp scissors to cut an X in the tip, then test with some water to make sure liquid can drop out slowing when the bottle is inverted.)
Syringes (optional).
Formula - Sonora Cat Rescue very strongly recommends Breeder’s Edge formula for best weight gain and lowest instances of diarrhea. Never feed a kitten cow/goat milk, dairy alternatives, or human baby formula.
Method for heating formula (make formula with warm water or float a chilled bottle in hot water to warm it up).
Preparation
First, make sure your kitten is stable. It is dangerous to feed a kitten that is too warm or too cold. As long as you have been providing an adequate heat source, your kitten should be ready to go.
To prepare the food, mix 1 part powdered formula to 2 parts warm water (unless you are using a formula other than what SCR recommends, then refer to the label). Mix well until it is clump free.
The bottle should be comfortably warm.
If you have any leftover formula after feeding, refrigerate it between uses. Never mix more formula than you can use in 24 hours. Always discard mixed formula if 24 hours have passed since it was prepared.
Feeding
Always feed your kitten in a natural, belly-down position. Never feed a kitten on their back. Hold the head stable with your non-dominant hand, gently slide the nipple into the kitten’s mouth, and invert the bottle to start the flow of formula. Make sure you tip the bottle enough that the kitten isn’t ingesting any air. The kitten will roll their tongue into a U-shape and begin to swallow. Be very careful not to squeeze formula into the kitten’s mouth, as this can cause aspiration. Keep one finger resting gently against the kitten’s throat so you can feel if they are swallowing. A kitten’s ears will also wiggle with each swallow. It’s pretty adorable!
Feeding volume and schedule
Kittens eat often, but don’t let that scare you! They are hardier than you think. Below is the awesome chart created by the folks at Maddie’s Fund. You should get up with young kittens once during the night, but you don’t need to wake up every 2 hours like the old rule of thumb insisted. We’ve had huge success with this model, and it makes bottle feeding much easier on fosters and caregivers.
(Link to original)
Tips for a fussy eater
Remember that bottle feeding is new for a kitten! It’s okay if they don’t get the hang of it right away. Just keep trying and working together to find a strategy that succeeds for you both.
Make sure the formula isn’t too cold or too hot.
If the kitten is very young and/or is not latching well, consider using a syringe instead of a bottle so you can get formula into their mouth without the kitten needing to suck. When syringe feeding, make sure you are extremely cautious with the flow of formula so the kitten does not aspirate.
If the kitten is very wiggly or flails with those sharp little claws, try wrapping them gently in a soft blanket to make a kitten burrito (a purrito!). This can help you control the situation better and make the kitten feel more secure. Just remember not to take them out of that belly-down position.
When kittens nurse from their mother, they are not pulled out of their nest and into a bright light. Feeding happens in the nest, and it’s a very warm and dark experience. If a kitten isn’t getting the hang of the bottle, try reaching into the nest to feed them right where they sleep instead. Their swallow reflex is also strongest immediately after they wake up.
Clean up
After a kitten has finished eating:
Burp the kitten by resting them on your shoulder or in your hand and gently patting their back and sides with 1 or 2 fingers. You should feel or even hear a small burp. If you skip this step, the kitten could aspirate formula later on.
Wipe any excess formula from their mouth and face.
Help them eliminate any waste. See the section below for details.
Weaning and the Meat Shakes
Kittens are ready to start weaning around 5 weeks old. You can tell when they are 5 weeks old because you can see their premolars emerging from their back gums. Do not try to wean a kitten earlier than this, as it can cause stomach issues and longer-term complications.
A good first step is to blend a bit of canned kitten food into their formula to create a “slurry.” Start with just a tablespoon of canned food blended into the formula, and work up until you have a 50/50 blend after a few feedings. Gradual introduction of the canned food will help their stomach adjust and avoid diarrhea. Still feed them this blend from a bottle.
After the kitten has had a few meals of the slurry, try introducing actual wet food. They will not understand how to eat from a bowl at first, so you’ll need to be patient. You can pick up a bit of the food in your fingers and offer it to the kitten that way. If you have been bottle feeding, the kitten already associates your hands with food, so this can be a good bridge. Make sure you still top them up with a bottle until they are eating a full meal of wet food.
Note: The first few times a kitten eats meat, whether blended into a slurry or straight from a bowl, they often get the “meat shakes.” They look like they are shivering or trembling pretty hard even though they aren’t cold. This is perfectly normal! They will stop shaking when eating meat after a few days.
Remember to keep weighing the kitten throughout this process. If they start dropping weight, up the bottle supplement or even consider postponing weaning for a few days.
Once the kitten is eating on their own and getting a full meal, you can stop supplementing and start offering a water bowl. Make sure it is a shallow dish that does not present safety hazards. They will not understand drinking at first, but they should get the hang of it within about 3 days.
Stimulating Waste
Kittens under 5 weeks old cannot eliminate waste on their own. If they are with their mother, she stimulates them to pee and poop by licking their bottom. If you are bottle raising a kitten, you will need to do this for them. Stimulate them after every single feeding.
The position of the kitten doesn’t matter much for this, so just find something that is comfortable for you both. You might rest the kitten on their belly, hold them with their bottom toward the floor, or even hold them on their back. Use a tissue, toilet paper, or baby wipe to rub the kitten’s genitals and anus in a circular motion. Continue doing this for at least 30 seconds and until the kitten is done eliminating.
A kitten will pee every time they feed and will poop once or twice per day on average. If they need to poop, make sure you keep stimulating them until they are done pushing. You will be rubbing just to the side of the anus so that you aren’t blocking it but are still encouraging them to push. You might feel their stomach tense, but that’s a good sign! Don’t stop until they are done.
Young kittens will often cry quite loudly as they poop. This can be startling, but it’s normal! Keep helping them poop even if they are noisy about it.
After they are done, clean their bottom with a damp tissue or baby wipe. Even if the kitten looks dry, make sure to clean them up. Urine and feces left on their skin can cause irritation and burning.
Litter Box Training
Introducing Litter
Kittens won’t start using a litter box until around 3 weeks of age. Once a kitten has reached that age, you can add a litter box to their environment. Every kitten develops at a different pace, so be patient and continue stimulating them until they can definitely eliminate on their own. They may not hit the litter box every time, but they will learn! Don’t punish the kitten for peeing or pooping outside of the litter box, as that will cause negative associations. Just pick up the waste if you can and place it in the box so they will go there next time.
Make sure you place the box away from their sleeping and food/water areas if possible. Kittens are not eager to go to the bathroom in those areas. Keep the box clean, and they will get the idea in no time.
Choosing a Litter
Much like human babies, kittens explore their worlds with their mouths. This means that they might get litter into their mouths or even swallow it. To ensure that kittens remain safe and healthy, do not use litter products that contain fragrances, harsh chemicals, or clumping properties. Pine or paper-based pellet litter is the best way to go until kittens are 8-10 weeks old. You can switch to a clumping litter at that time if you’d like.
Selecting a Box
Kittens need an open-top, shallow litter box. Make sure there are not obstacles like covers, high ledges, or doors. One great strategy is to use the cardboard tray that cans of food come in.
Vaccinations and Medications
There are different recommendations and practices if you ask different veterinarians, but Sonora Cat Rescue has established a best practice for our cats that we like to follow. Every kitten in our care receives:
Dewormer — First dose at age 4 weeks or later, a second dose 2 weeks later, and a third dose 2 weeks after that.
FVRCP vaccine — First dose at age 9 weeks or later, and a second dose 4 weeks later.
Rabies vaccine — At 4 months old.
If you are caring for a kitten and need help accessing these medications, please reach out to us!
You might also encounter health issues that need to be addressed. This list includes the most common ailments, but it is not exhaustive.
Infected eye that is closed, weepy, or goopy with discharge: treat with Terramycin ointment.
Irritated anus due to diarrhea: treat with regular diaper rash ointment.
Respiratory infection resulting in sneezes and coughing: treat with oral antibiotics.
Diarrhea: If it persists for more than 24 hours, reach out to a veterinarian. It might be appropriate to order a fecal test to see if the kitten has any parasites.
Worms: All kittens should get a dewormer, but this doesn’t address every type of worm. If you see any worms on the kitten or in their stool, contact a veterinarian for additional medication.
Fleas: Bathe in warm water and Dawn dish soap (original blue). Start by making a soap ring around the kitten’s neck so the fleas can’t cross it, then submerge their body in water. Since the fleas can’t reach the head, they will remain on the body and drown. Dry the kitten gently and use a flea comb to remove any remaining fleas. Repeat as needed. Important: Kittens cannot receive chemical flea treatments until they are at least 4 months old.
Spay/Neuter
We are in the midst of a cat overpopulation crisis! Any cat or kitten that comes into your care should be spayed or neutered.
A kitten can be spayed or neutered once they reach 2 pounds. Veterinary clinics in Sonora prefer to wait until the kitten is 4 pounds, so if you are getting them fixed locally, you might need to hold off until that age.
Spaying and neutering does a lot more than prevent unwanted kittens! It reduces health issues later in life (including some cancers), prevents spraying, keeps pets from wanting to roam far from home, and helps address some behavioral issues. We owe it to our pets to fix them!